A visit to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
Before setting off on any of the tours described in this guide book, we would recommend a visit to the city starting at Las Canteras Beach.
Podcast: Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
LAS CANTERAS
Las Canteras is one of Spain´s most attractive urban beaches, and is regarded as a blessing by Canarian people. This is a long beach of golden sand while a reef known as La Barra protects the waters of the beach and breaks the waves ensuring that the water of the inner lagoon is calm without being cut off from the open sea. The promenade, which runs along the length of the beach, offers the visitor a large number of pavement cafés to while away the time peacefully. From any of these cafés looking out to sea on the right hand side we can observe El Confital, at the foot of La Isleta, with ideal waves for year-round surfing. On the left hand side we can make out the northem coast of the island stretching away into the distance.
The Auditorio (Auditorium) Alfredo Kraus is located at the northwestern end of Las Canteras beach. This building was designed by the architect Oscar Tusquets and the sculptor Juan Bordes as being an auditorium it also incorporates the Palacio de Congresos de Canarias (Canary Islands Congress Centre). This is a splendid compilation of the most universal facets of the city´s culture, as it is the place where the main social and cultural events take place, such as Las Palmas de Gran Canaria International Film Festival and the Canary Islands Classical Music Festival, as well as many other concerts of classical music and other styles.The Auditorium area also boasts the highly original “Las Arenas” Shopping Centre which features a multi-screen cinema, shops and restaurant facilities to cater for all tastes.
PARQUE DE SANTA CATALINA
The Parque de Santa Catalina (Santa Catalina Square) is located very close to Las Canteras Beach and is adjacent to the Puerto de la Luz (the port area). Shops and hotels give the area a cosmopolitan feel. The square is used by both locals and tourists. Part of its sea port heritage is preserved in the form of the Elder and Miller Buildings, the latter of which now houses the Museo de la Ciencia y Tecnología (Science and Technology Museum). The Centro Coreográfico de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Trini Borrull (Coreography Centre) is currently housed in the Miller Building. Continuing towards La Isleta, you can find La Luz Castle, which is surrounded by a park with a rose garden that was reclaimed as a green area for the city . It was built in the sixteenth century and was one of the city´s principal lines of defense for several centuries, coveted by pirates and privateers alike. The castle fired in anger to warn off both Drake and Morgan, amongst others, but was unable to withstand the Dutchman Pieter Van der Does, who captured, sacked and set fire to the city in 1599. Two of the main arteries of the city, the Avenida Marítima (Maritime Avenue) and the León y Castillo Street begin just to the right of the Square and lead off towards the south.
VEGUETA-TRIANA
The city did not, however, originate in Santa Catalina, but almost ten kilometres away, in Vegueta, at the southern edge of the coastal strip upon which the city stands. The settlement around the Parque de Santa Catalina area dates from the end of the nineteenth century when the Puerto de la Luz started operating. At the time the port was at a substantial distance from the town centre. At the far end of the port area and crowned by volcanic mountains is La Isleta, a neighbourhood founded by sea-faring people of many different nationalities and whose inhabitants worked in activities related to the port. At the top of this mini-peninsula is the district of Las Coloradas which provides an excellent view of Las Canteras Beach and the reef which protects it. The reef itself is actually a stream of lava which ran down the slopes of La Isleta and into the sea where it solidified forming a wall which turns part of the beach into a natural swimming pool. A good proportion of this area is protected.
For almost four hundred years, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria was limited within the perimeter of the walled quarter of Vegueta-Triana which, in the middle part of the nineteenth century, started to expand as far as it could along the coastal strip towards the north until it reached the also-expanding Santa Catalina area. The León y Castillo Street acted as the axis and driving force of this long link of seamless growth. The outer Avenida Marítima is a far more recent development and was built on reclaimed land to the sea.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria was founded on 24th June 1478, on the feast of Saint John the Baptist. A Castilian force under the command of Juan Rejón disembarked on that day on the shore of La Isleta and immediately set off towards the south along the coastal strip where León y Castillo Street lies today. The troops crossed the Barranco de Guiniguada (Guiniguada Ravine), which is today covered by the main road leading from the city to the centre of the island, and they set up camp on a hilleck on the right hand side of the ravine where the Ermita (chapel) of San Antonio Abad is located today. This military encampment, which was named Real de Las Palmas due to the amount of palm trees which grew in the area, is the origin of the city.
Nevertheless, any visit to Vegueta should begin in the Plaza Santa Ana (Saint Anne´s Square) just a few metres away from the site of the military encampment, chosen by the conquerors as the nucleus of the first settlement, much of which has been preserved in its original state. The Casas Consistoriales (Town Hall), the Palacio del Obispo (the Bishop´s House) and the Cathedral, with its Gothic interior and neo-classic exterior, were all erected there. The Cathedral´s Patio de Los Naranjos (Orange Tree Courtyard) is an architectural gem and it houses the Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacro (Diocesan Museum of the Sacred Art). The Palacio Regental, residence of the president of Gran Canaria´s High Court of Law, was also built facing the Plaza de Santa Ana.
A short distance from Santa Ana, behind the Cathedral, is the Casa Museo de Colón (Columbus´House/Museum) which commemorates the discoverer of America´s connection with the city. This museum houses priceless archives and collections of documents relating to the Americas, as well as an art gallery and pride of place amongst its numerous displays is the history of the Atlantic Ocean . The building is spacious, with large courtyards and carved wooden ceilings, which, together with its stone decorations, reflect numerous aspects of the island´s architecture.
A cobbled street, known as the Calle de los Balcones leads off from the Plaza del Pilar square, which is overlooked by the main façade of the Casa Museo de Colón, and runs parallel to the sea. In this street a modest-looking building houses in its spectacular interior the futuristic Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno (Atlantic Modern Art Centre), more commonly known as the CAAM, which serves as a worthy backdrop to important international exhibitions.
Nearby, on Doctor Chil Street, stands the Church of the old Augustinian Convent, which is today the High Court, the Baroque church of San Francisco de Borja, the sombre-looking Old Seminary, threshold of eighteenth century enlightenment and the Museo Canario (Canary Island Museum) mainly devoted to the island´s prehispanic culture. The museum, which was created as an expression of the flowering of modern thinking at the end of the nineteenth century, boasts the world´s most extensive collections of Cro-Magnon remains. The museum also possesses a library and archives.
A stone´s throw from the Museo Canario is the Plaza del Espíritu Santo (the Square of the Holy Spirit), and clustered around its central carved stone tabernacle are some of Vegueta´s grandest stately homes.Every Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., visitors can go to the craft market on the Plaza del Pilar Nuevo, located behind the cathedral, where they can appreciate the workmanship of Canarian craftsmen while enjoying live music performances. The peaceful Church and Square of Santo Domingo, complete our evocative tour of Vegueta, old quarter of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
The birth of the Triana district on the left bank of the Barranco de Guiniguada, currently the site of the main road to the centre of the island, followed on closely from the founding of the city. Looking across from the Vegueta side we can line up the Plaza de Hurtado de Mendoza, the Municipal Library building and the former Hotel Monopol, which has been turned into a shopping arcade, complete with leisure facilities such as a multi-screen cinema, cafés and restaurants. This is followed by the Teatro (Theatre) Pérez Galdós. A narrow street known as La Peregrina leads off from Hurtado de Mendoza Square and this street is an introduction to the commercial destrict whose main thoroughfare, Triana, gives its name to the whole area. Around the Plaza de Cairasco and the Alameda de Colón are grouped the beautiful modernist Gabinete Literario and the San Francisco Church and Convent. A grandiose stately house, now the Centro de Iniciativas Culturales (Centre of Cultural Initiatives) de la Caja de Ahorros, more commonly known as CICCA, and the Hotel Madrid complete this corner of the city where much of its cultural life takes place.
At the end of Peregrina Street and at the beginning of Cano Street, we can find the birthplace of Benito Pérez Galdós, which has been turned into a museum commemorating his life and works.
Triana Street itself, with its shops at pavement level, provides numerous examples of the architectural history of the city, with the more modernist façades particularly outstanding. The chapel of San Telmo, at the northern end of the boulevard, and set in a square of the same name in the site of what used to be the original port area of the city. The foundations of the chapel date from 1694 and the chapel itself possesses attractive Mudejar-style coffered ceilings and gilded altarpieces. In San Telmo Square itself, which is dominated by the rather sombre-looking Gobierno Militar (Armed Forces Headquarters) we can find the restored avant-garde café and the bandstand, a replica of the original, which is used for golding concerts. The Estación de Guaguas (Central Bus Station) is also located in this square and the roof of the bus station forms another square where a replica of the statue of Benito Pérez Galdós can be found, sculpted by Victorio Macho.
The Vegueta district ends at Bravo Murillo Street, along which used to run from the sea and parallel to the old docks, the northern wall of the Triana-Vegueta settlement. This wall stretched up the hill, where some of its ruins can still be seen today, until it reached the Castillo de San Francisco del Risco.
The Palacio Insular, seat of the Cabildo (Island Governing Body) of Gran Canaria, is on Bravo Murillo Street. This building was designed by Miguel Martín Fernández de la Torre in accordance with the retionalist style of architecture. Perpendicular to Bravo Murillo Street is Tomás Morales Street which runs as far as the Parque Doramas (Doramas Park), and is the city´s focal point in terms of educational institutions: Secondary Schools, University Departments, important bookshops and so forth. Also in this street is the Plaza de la Constitución (Constitution Square), which is more commonly known as Plaza del Obelisco, which features a monolith to commemorate Spain´s new constitution.
PLAZA DE LA FERIA AND PLAZA DE RAFAEL O´SHANAHAN SQUARES
Between the Parque de San Telmo square and the Plaza de Rafael O´Shanahan, and running parallel to León y Castillo Street, we can find two of the main administrative buildings of the Autonomous Canary Islands Government, headquarters to the various different Canary Government Departments and the Government Presidency.
The Plaza de la Feria is located at the mid-point of this route. Its central point is occupied by a statue in honour of Benito Pérez Galdós, made of bronze and the work of the sculptor Pablo Serrano. Also located in this leafy square are two noteworthy public buildings: the headquarters of the Central Government Office for the Canary Islands and the Navy Headquarters.
Further along we reach the Plaza de Rafael O´Shanahan, gome to the Canary Islands Government Presidency.
THE DORAMAS GARDENS
Just beyond Rafael O´Shanahan Square lies Ciudad Jardín (Garden City). This part of town was built in a linear fashion according to British patterns. The British, who played a key role in the shaping of the city were the original developers of Ciudad Jardín, which used to be known as “the English hotel suburb”. Ciudad Jardín´s main feature is the Parque Doramas which encloses the Santa Catalina Hotel and the Pueblo Canario (Canarian Village), both built in Canarian style, symbolist creation of the Canarian painter Néstor Martín Fernández de la Torre. The Gardens display numerous examples of island plant species. The Bodegón del Pueblo Canario restaurant offers regular performances of traditional Canarian music and dance in its spacious central patio every Thursday evening and Sunday morning. The patio is flanked by craft shops, and at its far end is the Museo de Néstor (Néstor Museum) which houses the work of the great Canarian painter who dreamed up the surroundings.
Several important water sports centres are located in the Parque Doramas area, including the Julio Navarro Swimming Pool complex, and, on the coast itself, sheltered by the great outer quays of the Puerto de la Luz, the Muelle deportivo (Marina), the Club Varadero, the Metropole Swimming Club, and, rather further on towards the north Alcaravaneras Beach, the city´s second beach where the Real Club Naútico (Royal Sailing Club) is to be found.
THE AVENIDA MARÍTIMA
All of these thriving installations provide a good insight into the town´s great love and involvement in nautical sports, particularly Vela latina (Latin sailing ragattas). This type of sailing is unique to the Canary islands and regattas set off from La Laja, the city´s third beach to the very geart of the city at Puerto de la Luz. Not surprisingly, given such a tradition, the city has produced a numer of Olympic medallistwinning yachtsmen and women.
AVENIDA MARÍTIMA AND MESA Y LOPEZ
Continuing in the direction of the Parque de Santa Catalina is the Avenida Mesa y López, a wide tree-lined boulevard of department stores, specialist shops, banks, offices, restaurants and pavement cafés. The avenue ends at the Las Palmas Navel Base, part of the port complex, but reserved for the exclusive use of the Spanish Navy. A stone´s throw from Mesa y López are the Parque de Santa Catalina, las Canteras Beach, La Isleta and Puerto de la Luz.
PUERTO DE LA LUZ AND SAN CRISTOBAL
Leading away from Puerto de la Luz and following the coastline is the Avenida Marítima, which is in fact a motorway which by-passes Vegueta and runs on past the fishing quarter of San Cristóbal towards the international airport some 20 kilometres away and the island´s southern tourist areas. The Avenida Marítima was built on land reclaimed from the sea which enabled the narrowest part of the isthmus to be widened.
At the southernmost part of the Avenue and forming the exit point of the city, lies the fishing quarter of San Cristóbal. Rising up through the waves in front of the fishing village stands an old watch tower, San Pedro Mártir, popularly known as Castillo San Cristóbal.
This part of town specialises in fish restaurants.
CIUDAD ALTA AND LOS RISCOS
During the seventeenth century the city began to expand up the coastal cliffs beyond the coastal plain. Above the Vegueta area the new district of San José emerged, as did the “cliff settlements”, known as Los Riscos, of San Juan, San Nicolás, San Roque and San Bernardo. In the middle of the twentieth century the so-called Ciudad Alta (High City) started to be developed with the building of the Avenida de Escaleritas and the construction of suburbs on either side of this Avenue. At this time Pedro Infinito Street was also constructed, and has become the central landmark of the Schamann district and a popular shopping area for this part of the city.
TOURIST BUS
You can board or disembark from the guagua turística (tourist bus) at any of the twenty bus stops that are distributed along the length of its route. During the bus ride, you can enjoy the panoramic views from the high part of the city and visit the most charming and typical parts of a modern city that is always bustling with activity.
More information: www.city-sightseeing.com
